December 4, 2013

Diszno Vagas (pig killing)

Don't worry, this was not the one we killed
Diszno Vagas is a popular tradition that takes place on farms in the countryside of Hungary during late fall and early winter. Family and friends get together and dedicate a weekend to the killing, butchering and preparation of a pig. The weekend is filled with lots of drinking and eating, and much of the meat that is prepared can be frozen and eaten throughout the winter months.  One of my colleague's was able to arrange for us to be present for the diszno vagas at her boyfriend's brother's farm. The farm itself was about two hours drive from Budapest and houses about 50 mangalica pigs, some chickens and ducks, a horse,10 dogs, and five cats. The morning starts with the killing of a pig. Correction, the morning starts with shots of pálinka and then the killing of a pig. They chose to kill a hefty mangalica that had an injured hoof and was already in quite a bit of pain.  Immediately after shooting the pig some blood is drained and brought to the kitchen to be cooked on the stovetop with garlic and onions.  Then the hard work begins and the pig must be cleaned and butchered.  There were so many steps involved, instead of explaining them all, I will show you the progression below.
Step 1: Pálinka
Step 2: Kill pig
Step 3: Drain blood for cooking
Step 4: Bring pig in
Step 5: Torch hair
Step 6: Begin removing hair
Step 7: Torch skin
Step 8: More pálinka
Step 9: Scrape torched skin
Step 10: Cleaning pig
Step 11: Remove head
Step 12: Remove organs
Step 13: Split spine and begin butchering
Step 14: Grind meat for sausage
Step 15: Seasoning meat for sausage
Step 16: Sausage cased and ready to cook/freeze
Step 17: Cook meat in outdoor wood-fire oven
Step 18: Jo étvagyat (enjoy your meal)

This was such an incredible weekend and I was so happy that I got to share it with my wonderful colleagues, Bill, and our friend James visiting all the way from Chicago.  Every now and then it feels good to get out of the city and just spend some time in the countryside. Oh, and the food was AMAZING.  I probably ate more pork in this one weekend than I had in the last 10 years of my life (that really is probably true).



December 3, 2013

Can I Eat That?

I was a vegetarian for about six years, but knew when I moved to Hungary I would integrate meat back into my diet. Meat is a big part of Hungarian cuisine and I did not want to offend people or miss out by not experiencing what is typically a big part of a country's culture. So after one brilliant year of eating anything and everything that was handed to me (regardless of whether I knew what was in it or not), my dreams of being an adventurous eater were crushed. This past October I was diagnosed with Celiac disease, which for those of you who are unfamiliar, is an autoimmune disease of the small intestine that reacts when gluten is consumed.  There is no cure, so the only solution is to live a completely gluten-free diet. What I thought would be the hardest part - resisting my favorite foods like bread, pasta, pastries, etc.- has actually proven to be the easiest part.  It is obvious that there are gluten in those items, so I've just gotten used to doing without, or I get creative with my cooking and find new ways to make my old favorites. What's most difficult is trying to determine what foods contain gluten and what foods do not...all while in a country where you speak little to none of the language.  Foods you would never suspect to contain gluten often will, due to additives, how they are manufactured, or how they are cooked.
Eating gluten-free in Hungary is not too challenging since I can make all of my own food at home and have learned all of the Hungarian words for ingredients that I cannot consume. I just make sure to read the packaging on anything I hope to buy.  There are also some specialty stores that carry lots of gluten-free products and flours, although the prices are quite high.  Things are drastically different when on the road traveling though. I am incredibly tempted by all of the new and tantalizing food that I know I can never eat because it either contains gluten or I have no way to know for sure that it doesn't contain gluten. I never realized how much emphasis and excitement Bill and I put on trying all the local foods when we traveled until I could no longer take part in that.  Even the simplest of things like that quick roll I used to grab in between museums as a cheap way to curb my hunger is no longer an option. I find myself being constantly hungry while traveling because of there being a lack of food that I can safely eat.  There are only so many carrots, apples, and snickers I can eat before I go a little crazy hoping to finally have a full meal that can actually fill me up.
Surprisingly this actually makes sense to me
I encourage Bill to try everything we normally would so he can at least tell me what it tastes like (and of course enjoy it himself).  There is no use for both of us to miss out.  I have gotten quite good at using my sense of smell and touch to try and imagine what something I cannot eat must taste like (and luckily Bill lets me mutilate his food in order to have this experience).  It is sad to think that I will never get to taste many of the traditional cuisines of the world, and will never again get to eat some of my favorite foods that I have eaten to date.
No more delicious street food :(
It's important for me though to focus on the fact that I am trading in all of these gluten-filled foods in exchange for a healthier existence, including a near extinction of my almost daily headaches.  The support I have gotten from friends and loved ones has helped me a lot.  Bill has embraced my quest to find the perfect gluten-free pizza dough (we're at four recipes and counting); my colleagues are always quick to 'protect' me when 'unknown' foods come my way; and friends visiting from the U.S. are kind enough to throw a couple of suspicious looking bags of gluten-free all-purpose flour in their suitcase for me (and we all know how quickly those free 50 pounds can fill up).  This new lifestyle has definitely added a challenge to traveling and living abroad, but not an insurmountable challenge.  I unfortunately have become the dietary pain in the ass that I so diligently tried to avoid being when I brought meat back into my diet.  For those of you out there who have no dietary restrictions, the next time you are traveling and contemplating whether or not you should try that food being sold on the street corner or choosing that mysterious menu item that makes no sense because you don't speak the language, just do it, because there are those of us who have no choice, so please eat and be adventurous for me.
Home-made gluten free pizza

October 21, 2013

Autumn in Central Europe


There is something about the crunch of leaves beneath my feet and the distant smell of chimney smoke at dusk that capture my heart every autumn.  The past couple of weeks the leaves have begun to change colors and the sun is slowly making itself scarce earlier and earlier.  Autumn is one of those seasons you can easily miss if you don't look up and notice what is around you.  Sure you will feel the weather getting cooler, and you can notice the days getting shorter, but it is the radiant colors of fall that can come and go so quickly. We didn't want fall to pass us by without really embracing it, so this past weekend we spent a day at the imperial gardens in Vienna: Schonbrunn and Belvedere, and then an afternoon exploring the many colors of Gellert Hill in Budapest.
Schonbrunn Palace Gardens
Catching leaves at Schonbrunn
Prancing in the leaves
Stadt Park with Strauss in the background
Belvedere Palace
Gellert Hill
Gellert Hill


Sarajevo

We took a nine hour bus ride from Belgrade to Sarajevo. I was planning on sleeping for a lot of the ride, but the scenery along the way was absolutely stunning that I just couldn't shut my eyes.  We were weaving between jagged cliffs and driving along water nearly the color of emeralds.  We spent four days in Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia, but I felt like I could have stayed forever.
View of Sarajevo
Sarajevo might be one of my favorite cities in the entire world.  It has a depth of beauty that is greater than most cities.  On the surface you see a city sprawling within a basin of beautiful green hills, cobbled streets with old ottoman architecture, minarets in every direction, and an overall calm and stillness when you take it all in from a higher vantage point.  As you scan more closely and deeply you notice countless cemeteries, streets that wear scars in the form of bullet holes and mortar impressions, and a city full of people who saw more death and destruction than anyone should have to see.  Sarajevo was under siege for nearly four years during the 1990's, making it the longest siege of a capital city in modern warfare. Despite all of the scars the city might wear, the people have such a beautiful attitude and outlook on life.  They look forward, to what is good and in front of them, when it would be so easy to just look back and stay consumed in the pain and fear they had to endure. There was a true sense of positive energy in Sarajevo, unlike any other place I have ever been.  It might seem strange to describe a place that visibly emanates pain and destruction to have positive energy, but it was there, and it was radiating from the people.  There was this strange mix between positive energy from the people and feelings of heavy emotions that were impossible to shake when seeing  and hearing about what the people of this city had to go through. I really cannot fully describe it; it was just something that could so clearly be felt.
Men watching a chess game in a park
Bascarsija Square
Islamic Cemetery
Sarajevo Rose (mortar explosion)


September 1, 2013

Food Glorious Food

The Balkans is one of THE BEST places to eat.  And that is coming from someone who normally doesn't really like meat, but let me tell you, the meat here is different, and it is amazing.  Normally when Bill and I go on a trip we search high and low down big streets and alleys to find local places to eat.  I wouldn't exactly call them restaurants, because many times it is just a stand on the street, or if the 'food establishment' is within four walls, not a whole lot resembles a restaurant except the fact that there are chairs and tables (which don't usually match), and a kitchen (that is usually completely visible).  Finding these places in the Balkans was a cinch.  There were no long marathon-like quests in attempt to satiate our hunger on this trip; our problem was trying to not eat so much that we get sick.  The food was all so fresh, delicious, and insanely cheap!
Bosnian Sausage (I forgot the proper name) - Mostar, Bosnia
Bosnian Burek (filled with meat) - Sarajevo, Bosnia
Bosnian Coffee - essentially Turkish coffee, but your drinking it in Bosnia) - Sarajevo, Bosnia
River Fish with spinach and potatoes - Mostar, Bosnia
Squid Tint Risotto - Dubrovnik, Croatia
Breakfast of sardines, dough fritters, jam, cheese and homemade mountain tea - Scepan Polje, Montenegro
Made fresh by our wonderful 'house mom'
Bill enjoying Pljeskvica - Kotor, Montenegro
Homemade Goat Cheese - Kotor, Montenegro
The best thing about this cheese was how we found it. We were hiking the old city walls of Kotor and saw a deviation in the path that took us behind the trail. After walking about 150m we saw a sign that read "goat cheese 50m" so naturally we continued walking and came across a house perched on the hill, with goats surrounding it. We were invited in by the most lovely family, and there were no complaints about the view or cheese.
Qofte - Pristina, Kosovo

Sarma (grape leaves stuffed with rice and minced meat) - Sarajevo, Bosnia
Mish (thinly grilled beef) - Prizren, Kosovo
Cevapi - Pristina, Kosovo

Macchiato, the life blood of Kosovars - Pristina, Kosovo

Goat Cheese Market - Peja, Kosovo

Beef Kebab - Pristina, Kosovo

Mish Pule - Pristina, Kosovo
Dorado - Durres, Albania

Rotisserie Chicken - Tirana, Albania
Fish that Bill caught in Lake Ohrid - Ohrid, Macedonia
Drob Sarma (rice w/ liver), Chushki Burek (cheese stuffed peppers) Kavarma (pork ,egg and veg) - Sofia, Bulgaria
Souvlakis (grilled pork) and Kebab (grilled minced lamb) - Thessaloniki, Greece
Octopus - Pella, Greece